In our previous introduction to the latest 2024 summer haute joaillerie collections, we couldn’t cover all the exquisite pieces due to space limitations. Today, we’ll focus on one of the season’s most popular jewelry categories: choker necklaces.
These short necklaces have made a striking comeback, with every major brand showcasing at least one eye-catching, technically impressive piece. Let’s explore the 10 most coveted chokers of the season and see which one steals your heart.
Bulgari
Serpenti Aeterna Necklace
While Bulgari’s main haute joaillerie piece this year was the all-diamond Serpenti Aeterna necklace celebrating the brand’s 140th anniversary, along with colorful versions featuring rare gemstones like Colombian emeralds, Sri Lankan sapphires, and Paraiba tourmalines, the most memorable piece from the entire Aeterna collection is undoubtedly the Aurea Chandra necklace.
This 5-layer spherical choker in rose gold and diamonds creates a stunning visual impact with its mirrored metal surfaces reflecting the brilliance of the pavé-set diamonds.
Aeterna High Jewelry Collection
Aurea Chandra Necklace
This necklace draws inspiration from the 1980s Chandra collection, embodying the bold and glamorous aesthetic of that era. Five rows of alternating rose gold and diamond-encrusted spheres hug the neck closely. Despite its commanding presence, the necklace boasts a feather-light structure.
Aeterna High Jewelry Collection
Aurea Chandra Necklace
De Beers
Protection Necklace
What could be more regal than a lion? De Beers’ Forces of Nature high jewelry collection draws inspiration from savanna animals, with the most memorable piece likely being the Protection necklace, which recreates the “Lion King’s” mane using metal fringe.
Forces of Nature High Jewelry Collection
Protection Necklace
Messika
White Midnight Sun Necklace
Messika’s haute joaillerie collection makes a bold statement with the White Midnight Sun necklace. Its voluminous silhouette and minimalist lines give it a commanding presence. Creative Director Valérie Messika skillfully combines rounded contours, daring volumes, and the brilliance of diamonds in this piece.
Midnight Sun High Jewelry Collection
White Midnight Sun Set
The main body of the choker is composed of over 2,400 diamonds set in a snowflake pattern, creating a rich and sparkling texture effect along its curved lines. A 3.55-carat pear-shaped diamond serves as the visual focal point, outlined in gold to evoke a radiant halo reminiscent of sunlight.
Midnight Sun High Jewelry Collection
White Midnight Sun Set
Gucci
Labirinti Necklace
Gucci has also contributed a powerful choker this year, drawing inspiration from palace garden mazes. The confusing pathways are distilled into gold and silver lines, with three large emeralds at the center serving as the endpoint. The entire choker appears both grand and elegant, luxurious yet refined.
Labirinti High Jewelry Collection Necklace
Diamonds, Emeralds
Chopard
Oak Vine Tree Necklace
Chopard has created a fairytale world this season, particularly with their highlight piece – the Oak Vine Tree necklace, which took six months to create. Rose gold and titanium are carved to form the crown and intertwining branches of an oak tree, symbolizing power and strength.
Tsavorites are set to represent lush green leaves, while bright sapphires are clustered to form yellow flowers. The piece even features realistically carved acorns suspended from the branches.
Red Carpet High Jewelry Collection
Oak Vine Tree Necklace
Dior
Diorama & Diorigami Necklace
Dior draws inspiration from ancient prints, employing complex carving techniques to bring poetic textile patterns to life in three-dimensional jewelry form. Victoire de Castellane, Dior’s Jewelry Artistic Director, has created a miniature romantic forest.
In this necklace, amidst shrubbery crafted from gold, emeralds, sapphires, tsavorites, pearls, and diamonds, one can spot a small deer carved from chrysoprase, hidden among blooming flowers. Upon seeing this necklace, wouldn’t you also wish to shrink and enter this world, wandering through this enchanted forest?
Diorama & Diorigami High Jewelry Collection Necklace
Emeralds, Sapphires, Tsavorites, Pearls, Chrysoprase, Diamonds
Mikimoto
The Bow Necklace
This year, Mikimoto embraces an opulent court style with a choker design that exudes historical elegance while surpassing the pearl chokers popularized by Queen Alexandra.
Unlike the densely packed designs of the past that emphasized height, this piece extends laterally, focusing on negative space and the suspended strands of pearls. The combination of diamond bows transforms it into an almost “pearl shirt,” enhancing its luxurious and romantic appeal.
The Bow High Jewelry Collection Necklace
Louis Vuitton
Séduction Necklace
Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director for Watches and Jewelry, has a particular fondness for chokers. She introduces new pieces annually, believing that these structurally impactful necklaces best embody feminine strength.
This year’s “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds” collection features several choker necklaces, with the Séduction theme necklace best exemplifying the collection’s tribute to 19th-century French craftsmanship.
Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds High Jewelry Collection
Séduction Theme Necklace
This necklace pays homage to 19th-century French textile and edging techniques. Platinum and yellow gold are interwoven to recreate the textures of popular brocades, jacquards, and fringes of the era, resulting in a soft and supple effect.
At its center, a 12.92-carat Zambian emerald serves as the perfect focal point for this luxurious fabric-inspired piece.
Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds High Jewelry Collection
Séduction Theme Necklace
Piaget
Essence of Extraleganza Necklace
Piaget’s haute joaillerie this season celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary, showcasing over 100 goldsmithing techniques. This white and yellow gold choker necklace is undoubtedly their finest display of craftsmanship.
While it may appear simple at first glance, closer inspection reveals that each “link” of the necklace demonstrates a different technique, creating varied textures. The result is a 360-degree three-dimensional circular structure that flaunts the brand’s expertise from every angle.
Essence of Extraleganza Collection
High Jewelry Necklace
Boucheron
Sable Noir Necklace
Boucheron’s haute joaillerie this season is particularly stunning, but for sheer boldness and practicality, the Sable Noir necklace stands out. The stark black and white contrast and the minimalist yet voluminous silhouette create a refined beauty that speaks volumes. Despite its seemingly “simple” appearance, the creation of this black and white design is far from straightforward.
Carte Blanche, Or Bleu High Jewelry Collection
Sable Noir Necklace
White gold, black sand, diamonds
Indeed, Boucheron has once again employed “black technology,” pioneering the use of 3D printing to compress black sand grains into shape. Using high-precision spray printing, they bond the sand grains layer by layer until achieving the desired form. This innovative technique, derived from the automotive and aviation industries, creates a uniquely durable material that reveals iridescent patterns of sand grains.
Carte Blanche, Or Bleu High Jewelry Collection
Sable Noir Series Craftsmanship Illustration
This season’s haute joaillerie trend in chokers emphasizes “height” and “thickness,” replacing the previously popular delicate and romantic court styles. The focus is on creating a “queenly” presence, with these modern, statement chokers becoming essential pieces for asserting a strong, feminine presence. Which of these chokers would you most like to own?
Top 10 Show-Stopping Chokers from 2024 Haute Joaillerie Collections
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