Recently, Tiffany & Co. unveiled its 2024 Blue Book high jewelry collection, Tiffany Céleste, in Beverly Hills, California. This new collection takes a unique perspective, reimagining the classic creations of the brand’s legendary designer Jean Schlumberger, which were inspired by the sun, moon, stars, distant galaxies, and fantastical universe.
The exceptional designs pay homage to the master’s boundless imagination and his love for the mysterious cosmos.
Those familiar with the jewelry world are no strangers to Tiffany & Co. and the legendary designer Jean Schlumberger. In March of this year, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany high jewelry collection showcased hundreds of exquisite pieces in Shanghai, with the “Bird on a Pearl” series being particularly eye-catching, highlighting Schlumberger’s heritage and legacy.
Our understanding of Jean Schlumberger often stems from the famous classic “Bird on a Rock” brooch, born in 1965. This world-renowned brooch has been collected by many notable figures, from Jacqueline Kennedy to Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and the famous collector Mrs. Mellon. To this day, the Bird on a Rock series remains beloved by numerous celebrities and collectors.
It’s fair to say that Jean Michel Schlumberger has undoubtedly created countless classic designs for Tiffany & Co.
Today, let’s take a look back at the star designer who shaped Tiffany’s legendary jewelry – Jean Schlumberger.
Mutual Achievement Leading to Magnificent Works
Jean Schlumberger, as an outstanding master of jewelry design, is renowned for his unique creativity, profound understanding of nature, and revolutionary contributions to jewelry design. Born in 1907, he grew up in a wealthy textile industry family in Alsace, France. Around the age of 20, he moved to Paris, initially venturing into the field of fashion design. His design talent began to gain attention in Parisian social circles.
In the 1930s, one of Schlumberger’s early significant breakthroughs came from his collaboration with Elsa Schiaparelli, Paris’s most famous women’s fashion designer, creating accessories for her fashion collections. This collaboration not only showcased his influence in the fashion world but also helped establish his decisive reputation in jewelry design.
The concept of fashion jewelry was born during this period. While working for Schiaparelli, Schlumberger’s designs began to frequently feature natural themes and symmetrical beauty, as well as the use of vibrant enamel.
In 1956, at the invitation of Walter Hoving, then chairman of Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger became the chief designer for the company. With Tiffany’s support, he established his own studio on New York’s Fifth Avenue. During this period, his creativity reached its peak, resulting in many iconic works such as the Tiffany Yellow Diamond design, the “Bird on a Rock” brooch, the Sixteen Stone ring series, 18K gold bracelets with colorful enamel, and the Jasmine necklace.
Style Rooted in Nature, Inspiration Creates Legends
As one of the most renowned designers of the 20th century, Jean Schlumberger excelled in designing with natural elements. Lively animals, vibrant flowers, and mysterious oceans were all sources of his inspiration, which was related to his experiences wandering in India, Thailand, Indonesia, and the Antilles.
The creatures he created were full of rhythm, as he said: “I try to make everything look as if it’s growing, moving with a dynamic irregularity.” He combined dazzling gemstones with gold and platinum, creating a collision between stones buried for hundreds of millions of years and natural elements, jointly creating the natural kingdom in his mind.
All of Schlumberger’s design works began with sketches. Through his brushstrokes, he continuously explored the natural forms that had remained in his mind. Then, a detailed hand-drawn draft was born, and the final designs were all handcrafted, using gemstones, 18k gold, and platinum set with diamonds.
To this day, Tiffany’s jewelers in New York and Paris continue to trace Schlumberger’s original hand-drawn drafts, recreating and presenting magnificent jewelry masterpieces.
Jean Schlumberger was adept at drawing inspiration from the forms, colors, and vitality of nature, conveying an artistic emotion beyond material value through jewelry design. Designs like “Bird on a Rock” not only showcased the beauty of jewelry but also contained profound symbolic meanings, reflecting the designer’s longing for freedom, harmony, and natural beauty.
This design style emphasized creativity and individuality, attracting collectors and wearers who pursue unique tastes and appreciate the fusion of art and nature, such as the famous collector Mrs. Mellon.
Bunny Mellon, from a wealthy seven-generation old money family, could be considered Schlumberger’s number one fan, having collected a total of 135 pieces of his high jewelry designs!
Jean Schlumberger’s Influence on Tiffany & Co.
At Tiffany & Co., Jean Schlumberger created numerous iconic designs, such as the “Bird of Paradise” clip series and the famous “Bird on a Rock” brooch. His design style and use of color, especially the combination of gemstones and enamel, brought an unprecedented artistic style to Tiffany. These works quickly became Tiffany’s signature products and were widely sought after.
Schlumberger’s designs not only enriched Tiffany’s product line but also elevated the brand’s artistic status in the field of high jewelry. His works frequently appeared in Tiffany’s Blue Book high jewelry catalog, becoming one of the most anticipated designs of the year.
Through collaboration with Schlumberger, the Tiffany brand also strengthened its image as an innovator in the jewelry industry and a leader in artistic jewelry, attracting more customers seeking unique, high-quality jewelry.
As one of Tiffany’s most important cultural assets, the brand’s continued tribute to Jean Schlumberger is not only a recognition of his personal artistic achievements but also a testament to the brand’s cultural heritage, market strategy, and design innovation.
As the soul of the brand’s design IP, the Bird on a Rock and Schlumberger will undoubtedly lead Tiffany to create an even more brilliant path in American-style magnificent high jewelry.
The Legendary Jean Schlumberger: How He Captivated Tiffany & Co. for Nearly a Century
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