Since Boucheron released yet another high jewelry collection, we’ve truly been astonished by the fierce water-element jewelry. In the jewelry world, designing water – an element that seems simple but actually deters many – in an ingenious way while still capturing its inherent power is no easy feat. Moreover, at the height of summer, no one wants to waste time on unremarkable water droplets.
To experience true refreshment, one must feel the impact of towering waves. So, what new twists have been put on the water element, and which pieces have left us multi-layered impressions?
Isn’t our basic concept of water’s forms still limited to liquid, solid, and gaseous states? In the jewelry world, when it comes to representing water, the visual depiction is indeed the primary approach for jewelry designers.
Furthermore, whether it’s major jewelry brands or well-known independent jewelry designers, dedicating an entire series solely to water representation would make anyone anxious. Even with an open mind and putting forth maximum effort in design, it’s difficult to completely shed the label of “single element,” as it becomes challenging to weave together an entire story.
Consequently, the water element is often incorporated as part of a jewelry series to complete an overall theme. The conventional approach is to include it in jewelry designs inspired by nature.
For instance, the well-known Tiffany & Co., in their 2023 Blue Book “Out of the Blue” high jewelry collection, presents the water element in the form of the vast ocean.
Whether it’s external factors like water’s sky-blue hue, transparent quality and flowing lines, the forms of water splashes or droplets, or abstract expressions of water-related animal imagery, the psychological impact of water, or the power of water – concrete manifestations can be seen in various parts of the collection.
Particularly interesting are two brooch pieces from the “Bird on a Rock” high jewelry series, which personify the water element as bird tears.
One piece features a Tiffany-blue sapphire as the main stone, while the other showcases a black opal with vibrant hues and fire. Both pieces have a pear-cut, teardrop-shaped sapphire set near the bird’s eye and beak area, resembling tears shed by the bird – an interesting, vivid, and romantic touch.
Of course, throughout the long history of jewelry development, there have been numerous pieces designed solely based on water’s form. Before these works came into being, the selection and combination of gemstones were particularly important. If we set aside design presentation, water-related gemstones can be seen as water in solid form.
Among these, the most representative gemstones, which are both frequent guests in high jewelry design and can express traditional water element forms, are undoubtedly sapphires and aquamarines.
They are both water-system gemstones, with aquamarine often referred to as the pure water element. At first glance, their names seem similar, but they belong to entirely different categories: aquamarine is part of the beryl family, while sapphire belongs to the corundum family. They have different compositions and hardness levels.
When it comes to gemstones that can present dynamic water, opal truly achieves this. Black opal presents deep, mysterious water through its multi-colored blackness; white opal presents gentle, calm, shimmering water through its subtle hues and fire; and of course, there’s water opal, presenting clear water through its transparent quality and color-changing effect.
Opal itself belongs to the hydrated silica gemstone family. Its unique play-of-color effect makes it particularly eye-catching among gemstones, and the love for it is polarized among jewelry enthusiasts and collectors. It’s worth noting that if opals are not well-maintained, they risk losing water, becoming translucent or opaque, affecting their play-of-color effect, and thus dulling their colors.
As we understand the position of the water element in today’s jewelry design, we’re immediately stunned by Boucheron‘s recently released Carte Blanche, Or Bleu new high jewelry collection. The entire series brilliantly designs with water as the main subject, leaving one to exclaim: Boucheron is truly exceptional!
However, while water is indeed the main subject in this season’s high jewelry pieces, the starting point for the series design lies elsewhere. Creative Director Claire Choisne drew inspiration from her trip to Iceland, exclaiming that “water is an invaluable source of life,” and subsequently incorporated water textures and natural light into this season’s jewelry creations.
The pieces in the collection present rich and delicate representations of water’s three states. This necklace, which doesn’t reveal much in the individual jewelry image, is actually 1.48 meters long and pavé-set with diamonds. It’s the longest necklace in Boucheron‘s history, a transformation of a naturally falling waterfall, delicately depicting the state of water cascading through rock crevices.
The straight-line portions of the necklace are not of equal length but simulate the change from thick to thin of water flows at different heights. This necklace also has a short-wear option, with two detachable sections that can be transformed into pendant earrings.
The piece that most captivates the editor is one that’s particularly evocative. This necklace captures the moment a water droplet falls and breaks the calm, with ripples spreading layer by layer, dynamic and rhythmic, as if draping multiple layers of water surface onto the body.
Boucheron has always emphasized design presentation, so in considering materials, they ultimately chose to set diamonds under thin, pure crystal. The number of diamonds is impressive at 4,542, and the design conforms to body curves for easy wear. The pure transparent crystal material creates an almost invisible effect, while the diamonds vividly embody the rippling sensation.
This bracelet from the collection can be said to perfectly embody solid water.
It showcases an ice cave formed by the refinement of time and wind action. With a white gold base, it’s carved from a single piece of crystal, pavé-set with diamonds and sapphires in various blue hues, arranged in a captivating gradient. Notably, this piece uses an invisible clasp design, making the bracelet’s atmosphere more complete.
Speaking of which, pearl material also has deep connections with water. Mikimoto’s 2023 Praise to the Sea high jewelry collection boldly showcases endless imaginings of the ocean.
It not only presents the ocean itself but also incorporates marine life, adding emotional resonance. This necklace design is full of drama, with a pair of blue whales, parent and child, traveling together, swimming in an ocean created with pearls and colored gemstones, radiating brilliant vitality.
There’s also this large necklace covered in pearls, carefully selected and arranged in a radial pattern from small to large according to size proportions. The tightly arranged whole has a three-dimensional undulation like ocean waves, showcasing the ocean’s grandeur.
Remember Chopard’s Red Carpet high jewelry collection from 2021? A set of wave-inspired pieces was particularly moving. The materials used were blue titanium and three-dimensional diamond settings, capturing the surging moment of waves with an avant-garde style and overall sculptural delicacy.
So let’s think carefully, what kind of “water” in jewelry truly catches your eye? In the jewelry pieces we’ve seen so far, the depictions of water forms all carry some sense of realism.
Some works are more abstract, not completely incomprehensible, but they provoke thought and exploration. It’s precisely this combination of abstraction and art, with the addition of subtle real-world elements, that can even move one to tears.
Let’s look at some abstract jewelry artworks related to water, which play not only with the water element but also with emotional expression and artistic integration of water.
This new Fabergé egg creation is designed in collaboration with Miami luxury cruise company Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Incorporating the concept of journey and ocean inspiration, it abstractly presents the rich color changes of the ocean under sunlight. Subjectively, it’s more like an art piece, bringing more possibilities to ocean art through creativity and jewelry craftsmanship.
It uses a diverse range of gemstone materials and techniques, but without feeling complicated or excessive. The color scheme is extremely harmonious, and it introduces a rotating mechanism. Gently turning the pearl wave at the top of the eggshell counterclockwise, seven wave pieces slowly descend, revealing another egg inside supported by waves.
The painting on this egg is inspired by the purple-pink gradients of the ocean’s color changes during sunrise or sunset as viewed from a cruise ship.
Cindy Chao presents water-inspired colors along the Seine, with rich colored gemstones offering an ultimate representation of the Seine’s scenery. Through the introduction of natural light and gemstone settings, the time dimension is cleverly extended, the shimmering lake water is perfectly recreated, and the dynamic sense of life is vividly displayed.
This unique sapphire earring piece by Swiss jewelry brand Gübelin artistically and abstractly presents the essence of glaciers, named “Glacial Symphony”. The two Sri Lankan sapphires in the stud part seem to be the source of the glacier, with curved lines adorned with sapphires and diamonds flowing down like meandering streams beside the ear.
The jewelry world’s exploration of the water element has never stopped. Crossing expressions of form, abstraction, and artistic integration will give you different levels of in-depth experience. As midsummer arrives, come and feel the jewelry patterns woven by the water element, welcoming a refreshing coolness that penetrates the heart!
Splash into Summer: Dive Deep with These Jaw-Dropping Water-Inspired Jewels!
Tweet
