The Museum of Fine Arts in St. Petersburg, Florida, recently hosted two concurrent jewelry exhibitions: “Jewels of the Imagination” and “Drawn To Beauty.” These exhibitions showcased over 100 pieces of jewelry created by Jean Schlumberger, a former designer for Tiffany & Co.
Jean Schlumberger is considered one of the most important jewelry designers of the 20th century. Born in Alsace, France, in 1907, he ventured to Paris at the age of 20 to pursue a career in fashion design. In 1956, Schlumberger was invited to become the chief designer for Tiffany & Co., where he was given his own studio on New York’s Fifth Avenue.
The majority of Schlumberger’s works drew inspiration from nature, with a particular emphasis on marine life. His designs are renowned for their vibrant energy and imaginative flair.
The “Jewels of the Imagination” exhibition featured 135 pieces on loan from the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. These exquisite pieces were part of a bequest from Rachel “Bunny” Mellon, an American horticulturist and wife of philanthropist Paul Mellon. Mrs. Mellon had commissioned Jean Schlumberger to create numerous nature-themed jewelry pieces throughout her lifetime.
The exhibition showcased a wide variety of designs including necklaces, bracelets, brooches, cigarette cases, and even salt cellars. One particularly intriguing piece was a jellyfish-themed brooch from 1967, which has an interesting story behind it. Mrs. Mellon was stung by a Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish on the beach, and subsequently commissioned Tiffany to create a brooch to commemorate the event.
Jean Schlumberger ingeniously used a curved moonstone to represent the jellyfish’s umbrella-shaped body, its misty luster perfectly mimicking the creature’s transparent form. Beneath the moonstone, thin gold tassels hung freely, resembling the jellyfish’s tentacles. The edges were adorned with long, step-cut sapphires, their striking color emphasizing the stinging tentacles that had affected Mrs. Mellon.
The exhibition was divided into three sections, arranged chronologically: Schlumberger’s formative years in Paris; his maturing style after moving to New York; and his high-society clientele from 1960 to 1970. One of the highlights was a “Trophy of Gallantry” brooch commissioned in 1941 by Diana Vreelan, the editor of American Vogue. Inspired by battle armor, this piece cleverly incorporated elements of armor, bow and arrow, and shield, combined with amethyst, ruby, and enamel to create a vibrant color palette.
1941
Set with diamonds, amethysts, and rubies, decorated with enamel, mounted in platinum and 14K gold. Custom-made for Diana Vreeland. On loan from the Tiffany & Co. Archives.
1952
Set with yellow and colorless diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum. Formerly in the collection of American horticulturist Mrs. Mellon.
1955-1963
Set with yellow and colorless diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum. On loan from the Tiffany & Co. Archives.
1957
Set with round-cut diamonds and sapphires, mounted in yellow gold and platinum. Formerly in the collection of American horticulturist Mrs. Mellon.
1960
Set with a cushion-cut amethyst, accented with emeralds, diamonds, and black garnets, mounted in yellow gold. Formerly in the collection of American horticulturist Mrs. Mellon.
1967
Set with a curved moonstone, round-cut diamonds, step-cut sapphires, mounted in 18K gold and platinum. Formerly in the collection of American horticulturist Mrs. Mellon.
Dazzling Exhibition: Jean Schlumberger’s Jewelry Masterpieces Come to Life
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