The art of chasing and repoussé has a long history that continues to this day. Most ancient gold and silver artifacts or modern silver jewelry collections we see today incorporate this technique. As a metalworking method that utilizes the properties of metal for shaping, it is characterized by intricate and realistic pattern elements in its expressiveness.
This traditional Chinese handicraft, which flourished by exploiting the malleability of gold, silver, and copper materials, involves specific technical operations. After designing the vessel shape and pattern, professional craftsmen use hammers and chisels to compress, engrave, stamp, dot, punch, and press the metal surface of a certain thickness, creating raised and recessed areas that form line engravings and relief decorative effects.
In this article, we will discuss the development of chasing and repoussé techniques and their application in contemporary jewelry design.
Differences and Similarities in Chinese and Foreign Chasing Techniques
It is said that chasing techniques appeared as early as the Shang and Zhou dynasties. Ancient Chinese gold and silver inlaid bronze wares used inlay decoration methods. The production steps were as follows:
- Create a mold with pre-carved grooves to facilitate vessel casting and inlay gold and silver in the grooves.
- After casting the copper blank, further process the grooves by chasing, adding fine patterns, and chasing shallow grooves for gold and silver inlays.
- Inlay gemstones and other decorative elements.
- Polish to make the gold wire smooth with the bronze surface.
Early Chinese gold and silver vessels had thick shapes and were formed by casting, like the accompanying bronze wares. Central Asian Sogdian, Persian Sassanid, and ancient Roman gold and silver wares utilized the excellent ductility of gold and silver, employing hammering techniques for shaping before applying decorative patterns through chasing.
Chasing techniques truly matured and improved by continuously absorbing influences from foreign cultures. After rapid development during the Tang Dynasty, traditional Chinese gold and silver craftsmanship gradually established and matured, with chasing techniques developing rapidly and becoming widely used in gold and silver wares, with increasingly rich techniques.
Through the exchange and integration of Eastern and Western cultures, chasing techniques were later transmitted to neighboring Japan, where they were inherited and developed. Today, they have evolved into a complete system of modern Japanese metalwork. These techniques, combined with modern culture, produce jewelry that is highly popular in the market.
Therefore, even in today’s era of advanced industrial manufacturing, chasing techniques still have craft value and appear in various forms in the current jewelry industry, as well as in limited artisanal decorations, artworks, film and television industry, and antique replicas.
Modern Interpretations of Chasing Techniques
Chasing techniques are also present in the works of artists, designers, and various jewelry brands today, often used to express personal or brand characteristics.
American jewelry artist Linda Kinder Priest extensively uses chasing techniques in her works to represent elements from nature, such as flora and fauna. By directly engraving these elements on metal and combining them with mineral crystals and gemstones, she creates unique life forms.
During the 2014 APEC meeting in Beijing, a golden fruit bowl “contained” a soft and delicate silver scarf. Its vivid and three-dimensional shape was created using traditional chasing techniques on pure silver.
The MAILE-MARRIGE jewelry brand extensively uses chasing and metal engraving techniques in their works, commemorating the great moment of marriage with gorgeous and exquisite patterns. These pieces are widely popular in the market for their vivid, fashionable, and classic designs.
Japanese jewelry designer Goro Takahashi also extensively uses chasing techniques in his works. Each piece is handcrafted, and his designs bring new charm to chasing techniques and silver as a material.
Chasing and Repoussé: The Ancient Metalwork Technique Captivating Modern Jewelry Designers
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