Bvlgari: A Legacy of Timeless Italian Beauty – Crafting Exquisite Jewels Through the Ages

Bulgari

The initial impression of Bvlgari often begins with jewelry – those mysterious and noble treasures that never fail to catch the eye and command attention, regardless of time or place.

Since the 19th century, the Italian jewelry house Bvlgari [BVLGARI] has continually drawn inspiration from ancient Roman art while infusing it with rich imagination and modern elements, creating countless exquisite jewelry masterpieces.


BVLGARI

Brand Origin

In the late 19th century, Greek silversmith Sotirio Bvlgari left his hometown in the Epirus region during the late Ottoman Empire and arrived in Rome, the new capital of the young nation of Italy. In this fragmented environment, he opened his first jewelry shop on Via Sistina, selling antique jewelry and silver pieces of his own creation. Little did he know, this was the beginning of a miracle – a 130-year legend was about to unfold.


Sotirio Bulgari, founder of the Bulgari brand
Sotirio Bvlgari, founder of the Bvlgari brand

The history of the Bvlgari family can be traced back to the previous century. In 1884, Sotirio opened a silver shop in Rome, specializing in exquisite silver carvings. With his exceptional talent, he soon established the Bvlgari [BVLGARI] brand in Rome. As a silversmith, Sotirio’s superb craftsmanship and luxurious, magnificent jewelry quickly gained fame throughout Italy.

By the early 20th century, Sotirio’s two sons, Giorgio and Costantino, also became passionate about creating gem-set jewelry. In 1905, with the assistance of his sons, Sotirio moved the store to 10 Via Condotti, which remains the address of Bvlgari’s global flagship store today.

In 2014, to commemorate Bulgari's 130th anniversary, the renovated Bulgari boutique at 10 Via Condotti
In 2014, to commemorate Bvlgari’s 130th anniversary, the renovated Bvlgari boutique at 10 Via Condotti

In the following 1920s and 1930s, Bvlgari created diamond jewelry inspired by the Art Deco movement. Giorgio and Costantino fully interpreted and expressed this design style, gradually pushing the Bvlgari brand to its peak.

Family portrait of the Bulgari family
Family portrait of the Bvlgari family

Their exquisite silver pieces were enthusiastically sought after by British tourists visiting Rome for the traditional grand tour, and business flourished as a result.

Sotirio’s two sons, while assisting their father in managing the family business, gradually became deeply attracted to the allure of gemstones, jewelry, and timepieces. This process also cultivated their professional skills, and after years of learning the business from their father, they gradually took over the family enterprise. The two brothers completely took over the family business in 1930 and began to carefully build their jewelry empire.


BVLGARI

Style Transformation

At that time, French style dominated the jewelry world. However, Giorgio and Costantino decided to break away from this prevailing trend. They departed from the strict norms of the French goldsmith school, drawing inspiration from Greek and Roman classical art, blending it with Italian Renaissance aesthetics and 19th-century Roman goldsmith style to create their unique taste.

It was during this period that Bvlgari’s style began to undergo a significant transformation.

Bvlgari started to focus on color as the essence of jewelry design, innovatively combining various colored gemstones and using different materials for the base to highlight the dazzling colors of the gems. To achieve a more comprehensive color palette, Bvlgari pioneered the use of various semi-precious stones in their jewelry, becoming an early trendsetter in the jewelry world’s mix-and-match approach.

Jewelry created by Bulgari in the 1930s and 1940s
Jewelry created by Bvlgari in the 1930s and 1940s

Bvlgari’s exquisite Italian craftsmanship gradually gained widespread recognition. The vibrant and eye-catching gemstones, along with their full-bodied designs, embodied the unique charm and creativity originating from Italy, shaping Bvlgari’s one-of-a-kind style.


BVLGARI

Peak Development Period

In 1949, Bvlgari created the Tubogas watch. Tubogas means “gas pipe,” and its multi-coiled shape reflects this meaning. This technique’s circular profile offers excellent flexibility and requires no welding.

In the 1940s and 1950s, Bvlgari first applied this technique to its Serpenti series of watches, inspired by the unique shape of gas pipes used since the 1920s.

By the 1970s, Bvlgari applied the gas pipe technique to the creation of watches, bracelets, necklaces, and rings. The craftsmanship involves dividing a “snake” into several small sections and then assembling them. Each scale of the snake’s body is connected by hinges. Ultimately, the gold hinges connecting the components cleverly disappear from view.

Several small sections
Several small sections
Finished product
Finished product

At this point, the combination of Greek and Roman classicism, along with Italy’s exquisite manufacturing artistry, created Bvlgari’s unique style. Its color combinations are radiant and dazzling, alternating between fashion and elegance.

By the mid to late 20th century, Bvlgari’s innovative and bold style had successfully captured the hearts of many royals, nobles, wealthy celebrities, and film stars. Italian actress Sophia Loren even served as a jewelry ambassador for Bvlgari.

Italian actress Sophia Loren
Italian actress Sophia Loren

From 1970, as the brand’s reputation rapidly grew worldwide, Bvlgari entered the first phase of its international expansion, accelerating its entry into global markets. During this period, Bvlgari boutiques opened in major cities around the world, including New York, Paris, Geneva, and Monte Carlo.

Bulgari's new boutique in New York
Located at one of Manhattan's most strategic locations, at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, occupying 308 square meters of the Crown Building's facade

It has now become a true landmark in New York
Bvlgari’s new boutique in New York
Located at one of Manhattan’s most strategic locations, at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, occupying 308 square meters of the Crown Building’s facade
It has now become a true landmark in New York
Bulgari London Flagship Store

Infusing Italian classical style into British architecture, revealing
Bulgari's Mediterranean-inspired elements and Roman traditions
Bvlgari London Flagship Store
Infusing Italian classical style into British architecture, revealing
Bvlgari’s Mediterranean-inspired elements and Roman traditions

BVLGARI

(Classic) Series Produced

In 1977, Bvlgari injected distinctive innovative elements into the brand. Drawing inspiration from various sources, from Far Eastern art to Pop Art, and catering to modern women’s vibrant aesthetic tastes, they launched the Bvlgari Bvlgari watch series. It quickly became popular worldwide, establishing itself as an innovative and timeless classic.

Early Bulgari Bulgari series watch pieces
Early Bvlgari Bvlgari series watch pieces

In the 1980s and 90s, Bvlgari continued to introduce diverse jewelry pieces suitable for all-day wear. In 1982, Bvlgari Time Neuchâtel was established, specializing in the design and production of Bvlgari watches. Modular jewelry better met the varying needs of women: based on single elements with strong design features, combined with various precious materials, from hematite to coral, from stainless steel to pavé diamonds.

With outstanding innovative talent, non-traditional materials were used in jewelry and watch making. Ceramics, silk, and wood continuously pushed the boundaries of luxury goods, endowing the pieces with excellent appearance and pleasant textures.

This was a great step achieved by the third generation of the Bvlgari family. In 1984, Giorgio’s son Paolo Bvlgari and Nicola Bvlgari became the company’s chairman and vice-chairman respectively, while their nephew Francesco Trapani served as the company’s CEO.

Paolo Bulgari and Nicola Bulgari
Paolo Bvlgari and Nicola Bvlgari

Following rapid development in the 1980s, Bvlgari began to adopt a diversification strategy in the early 1990s. They expanded their range of luxury goods to include watches, eyewear, leather goods, perfumes, and porcelain.

For over a century, Bvlgari has consistently maintained workshop-style handcrafting and artistically inspired designs. The Zero1 ring, with its central spiral design and double brand engravings on both sides, and the Lucea women’s watch with its diamond-set face and clasp and modern feel, have become their enduring classic products.


BVLGARI

Bvlgari and the Stars

From Italian actress Sophia Loren to today’s muses adorning the red carpets of Hollywood and the Cannes Film Festival, Bvlgari jewelry has some of the world’s most photographed followers. Bvlgari jewelry has become a favorite under the spotlight alongside actors, socialites, royalty, and even heads of state, accentuating the unique charm of its wearers. Jewelry and celebrities shine together!

On March 5, 2006, Keira Knightley was nominated for Best Actress at the Oscars in Los Angeles for her role in “Pride and Prejudice.” She wore a grand and luxurious Bvlgari vintage series gold necklace, set with cabochon-cut sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and brilliant-cut diamonds. The necklace and its matching earrings were carefully designed and crafted by Bvlgari for a Persian king in history.

On July 6, 2007, actress Anne Hathaway attended the “Valentino: 45 Years of Style” exhibition gala dinner held at the Temple of Venus in Rome, Italy. She wore Bvlgari vintage series gold earrings created in 1992, set with emeralds and diamonds. Today, Anne Hathaway remains a global brand ambassador for Bvlgari.

American actress Anne Hathaway
American actress Anne Hathaway

In 2010, actress Julianne Moore attended the Oscar ceremony in Los Angeles wearing several pieces of Bvlgari jewelry: three platinum diamond bracelets from the high jewelry series, two vintage series white gold diamond bracelets created around 1930, and a gold ring set with a 22.84-carat cushion-cut emerald and four long step-cut diamonds (1.82 carats).


BVLGARI

Introduction to Classic Collections

One of Bvlgari’s classics, the B.ZERO1 series, draws inspiration from the world-renowned circular amphitheater – the Roman Colosseum. It truly showcases Bvlgari’s creative perspective and challenges the essence of jewelry design.

Since its debut in 1999, it has continuously pushed the boundaries of jewelry design rules. Its unique and pure spiral design symbolizes the harmonious continuity of past, present, and future, reflected in the magnificent Eternal City, as well as the pioneering spirit of the series.

Its features include the use of various precious platinum and gemstones, ranging from artificial platinum and gold, colorful cabochon gemstones, heart-shaped gemstones, to pavé-set round-cut diamonds.

B.ZERO1 ROCK series 18K yellow gold four-band ring, decorated with pavé diamonds
B.ZERO1 ROCK series 18K yellow gold four-band ring, decorated with pavé diamonds
B.ZERO1 series pendant necklace, made of 18K white gold, adorned with pavé diamonds
B.ZERO1 series pendant necklace, made of 18K white gold, adorned with pavé diamonds
B.ZERO1 series soft bracelet, made of 18K white gold, decorated with pavé diamonds
B.ZERO1 series soft bracelet, made of 18K white gold, decorated with pavé diamonds

On the evening of July 2, 2013, Bvlgari launched the new Diva series in Paris. The inspirational muse Carla Bruni was present, perfectly embodying the glamorous style of Diva. The DIVA inspiration comes from the fan-shaped pattern in the mosaic of the ancient Roman Caracalla Baths, which became the iconic pattern of the DIVA series and a classic symbol of BVLGARI.

Carla Bruni
Carla Bruni

Allure and femininity are the keywords for the mid-to-high-end Diva series jewelry. The DIVA series includes 26 pieces, using contrasting material combinations, featuring both the complex craftsmanship of pavé diamonds and the gentle elegance of mother-of-pearl. It pays homage to the most charming women with a distinctive Roman spirit.

DIVAS' DREAM series earrings, made of 18K rose gold
Set with brilliant-cut spinels (3.81 carats), adorned with pavé diamonds (2.2 carats)
DIVAS’ DREAM series earrings, made of 18K rose gold
Set with brilliant-cut spinels (3.81 carats), adorned with pavé diamonds (2.2 carats)
DIVAS' DREAM series 18K white gold necklace, set with 1 central brilliant-cut sapphire and brilliant-cut sapphires (total weight 4.34 carats), as well as round diamonds (0.16 carats), adorned with pavé diamonds (0.85 carats)
DIVAS’ DREAM series 18K white gold necklace, set with 1 central brilliant-cut sapphire and brilliant-cut sapphires (total weight 4.34 carats), as well as round diamonds (0.16 carats), adorned with pavé diamonds (0.85 carats)
DIVAS' DREAM series 18K rose gold ring, set with malachite, complemented by pavé diamonds
DIVAS’ DREAM series 18K rose gold ring, set with malachite, complemented by pavé diamonds

In 1948, Bvlgari created the Serpenti series based on ancient totems. Since then, the series has continuously innovated, achieving many timeless pieces. Later, inspiration was drawn from rattlesnakes, using a combination of soft 18K gold and sturdy steel to create a flexibly changing snake body.

Snakes are not only the embodiment of wisdom, vitality, and charm, but their fluid and sensual design also captivated Cleopatra. In later stages, the addition of diamond and emerald-set snake eyes played a crucial role, with each snake coming to life vividly on the finger, fully displaying the snake’s allure.

SERPENTI MISTERIOSI secret watch, quartz movement
Curved case with a diameter of 36 mm, made of 18K white gold, dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Snake head set with brilliant-cut, baguette-cut, and pear-shaped diamonds and a pear-shaped ruby
18K white gold bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamond eyes
SERPENTI MISTERIOSI secret watch, quartz movement
Curved case with a diameter of 36 mm, made of 18K white gold, dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Snake head set with brilliant-cut, baguette-cut, and pear-shaped diamonds and a pear-shaped ruby
18K white gold bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds, diamond eyes

SERPENTI secret watch, quartz movement, curved case with a diameter of 40 mm
Made of 18K rose gold, set with pear-shaped diamonds and decorated with black lacquer, 18K rose gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds
18K rose gold double spiral bracelet set with pear-shaped diamonds and decorated with black lacquer, emerald snake eyes
SERPENTI secret watch, quartz movement, curved case with a diameter of 40 mm
Made of 18K rose gold, set with pear-shaped diamonds and decorated with black lacquer, 18K rose gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds
18K rose gold double spiral bracelet set with pear-shaped diamonds and decorated with black lacquer, emerald snake eyes
SERPENTI series necklace, made of 18K white gold, adorned with pavé diamonds
SERPENTI series necklace, made of 18K white gold, adorned with pavé diamonds
SERPENTI VIPER series double coil ring
Made of 18K rose gold, set with red tourmaline and fully pavé-set with diamonds
SERPENTI VIPER series double coil ring
Made of 18K rose gold, set with red tourmaline and fully pavé-set with diamonds

As mentioned earlier, the BVLGARI BVLGARI series watches were once all the rage. The brand continues to innovate based on Roman culture, its source of inspiration, blending elegant elements of modern culture to showcase passionate and modern fashion appeal within the classics.

Now, the iconic circular pattern of this jewelry series has been reinterpreted, presenting a fresh and distinctive openwork design that combines striking shapes, Bvlgari’s playful spirit, and vibrant colors.

BVLGARI BVLGARI series 18K rose gold bracelet
Set with carnelian, lapis lazuli, malachite, and mother-of-pearl
BVLGARI BVLGARI series 18K rose gold bracelet
Set with carnelian, lapis lazuli, malachite, and mother-of-pearl

BVLGARI

Epilogue

The Italian jewelry house BVLGARI has created countless timeless masterpieces, conveying the enduring essence of Italian aesthetics to the public through dazzling jewelry. Among these, drawing infinite inspiration from the Eternal City of Rome has resulted in inimitable classic works.

In 2023, Bvlgari, a brand with 139 years of history, continues to break through its own boundaries, giving jewelry new definitions. The convergence of intertwining lines and structures creates infinite possibilities for jewelry aesthetics.

Bulgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection

Mediterranean Sapphire necklace
Nine sapphires from Zambia, total weight 40.81 carats
"Tassel" long pendant composed of 80 oval-cut sapphire beads, total weight 116.01 carats
Adorned with brilliant diamonds of various cuts, total weight 35.54 carats
Bvlgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection
Mediterranean Sapphire necklace
Nine sapphires from Zambia, total weight 40.81 carats
“Tassel” long pendant composed of 80 oval-cut sapphire beads, total weight 116.01 carats
Adorned with brilliant diamonds of various cuts, total weight 35.54 carats
Bulgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection

Oriental Dream necklace
Rare orange-red garnets from Zambia, total weight 90 carats
Bvlgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection
Oriental Dream necklace
Rare orange-red garnets from Zambia, total weight 90 carats
Bulgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection

Oriental Buds necklace
Main stone is an antique cabochon emerald from Colombia, weighing 13.34 carats
Round diamonds specially cut for this unique design, 107 baguette-cut emeralds, and 40 baguette-cut sapphires complement the main emerald
6 pink tourmalines, 10 sapphires, and 10 emerald beads resemble precious Oriental seeds, occasionally dotted on the rose gold collar, making the color collision more vivid and dynamic
Bvlgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection
Oriental Buds necklace
Main stone is an antique cabochon emerald from Colombia, weighing 13.34 carats
Round diamonds specially cut for this unique design, 107 baguette-cut emeralds, and 40 baguette-cut sapphires complement the main emerald
6 pink tourmalines, 10 sapphires, and 10 emerald beads resemble precious Oriental seeds, occasionally dotted on the rose gold collar, making the color collision more vivid and dynamic
Bulgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection

Exedra necklace
Main stone is a 68.8-carat emerald from Colombia
Hexagonal pendant set with 124 baguette-cut emeralds (9.88 carats)
9 round cabochon amethysts (6.03 carats) and turquoise elements
Bvlgari Mediterranea high jewelry collection
Exedra necklace
Main stone is a 68.8-carat emerald from Colombia
Hexagonal pendant set with 124 baguette-cut emeralds (9.88 carats)
9 round cabochon amethysts (6.03 carats) and turquoise elements

In early November this year, Bvgari released the 2023 Mediterranea high jewelry collection. Let’s appreciate the above high jewelry pieces from this collection to conclude this article!

Bvlgari: A Legacy of Timeless Italian Beauty – Crafting Exquisite Jewels Through the Ages