BUCCELLATI: The Italian Jewel Challenging Van Cleef & Arpels’ Crown

BUCCELLATI, an Italian jewelry brand founded in 1919, combines wisdom from different countries and artistic fields. This wisdom nourishes the brand’s history and present, making it a true family of jewelry artists.

BUCCELLATI

A luxury research institute in New York once conducted a “Luxury Value Index” survey among high-end consumers for 20 top jewelry brands. The results showed that BUCCELLATI outshone Boucheron, Bulgari, De Beers, Piaget, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels, ranking in the top three alongside Harry Winston and Cartier.


BUCCELLATI History

Mario Buccellati was born on April 29, 1891, in Ancona. After his father’s death, Mario moved to “grande Milano” of the early 20th century with his mother Maria and siblings.

Upon arrival, he apprenticed with goldsmiths Beltrami and Besnati, whose business was located at Via Santa Margherita 5, between La Scala Theater and the square.

It was here that young Mario learned the essence of Italian goldsmith traditions, thousand-year-old craftsmanship, and material applications. Mario also studied workshop management and how to select craftsmen while understanding client tastes.

Most importantly, Mario, a focused and curious observer, grasped the “Milanese spirit.” Exuding an air of discreet and dignified elegance, Mario would become the main interpreter of la milanesità in the goldsmith field.

BUCCELLATI

BUCCELLATI created a soft “tulle” effect with its unique “textured engraving” technique. Different gold “weaving” skills, combined with cleverly set gemstones, resulted in an exquisitely delicate style that drew admiration.

BUCCELLATI history

At the end of World War I, Mario decided to start his own business. He took over Beltrami and Besnati’s business and opened his first store at Via Santa Margherita 5.

One of Mario Buccellati’s greatest challenges was transferring lace weaving onto gold plates. Works featuring lace elements, tulle, or honeycomb openwork quickly made Mario world-renowned. In 1925, Mario and his brother Carlo opened a second store at 30-31 Via dei Condotti in Rome. Four years later, he opened a third store at 71 Via de’ Tornabuoni in Florence, this time with the support of his brother Melchiorre.


Beautiful Times of Weaving Dreams

For nearly a century, many have imitated BUCCELLATI’s style in jewelry making, but this has not shaken its position as the “Prince of Goldsmiths.” BUCCELLATI pays great attention to training second and third-generation jewelers, ensuring its unique craftsmanship and style are passed down unchanged.

BUCCELLATI history

In 1952, Mario opened a BUCCELLATI branch in the United States, becoming the first Italian jeweler to enter the American market. After Mario’s death in 1965, Federico Buccellati took over the family business, and the brand’s logo changed to “Federico Buccellati” to showcase the spirit of generational inheritance.

From the moment of inspiration to the realization of creativity, BUCCELLATI’s second-generation leader never deviated from his father Mario’s craft traditions. Moreover, Federico injected vitality and new inspiration into the brand. Flora and fauna became common creative themes, with leaf necklaces, floral bracelets, and dragonfly and butterfly-shaped jewelry all reflecting vivid traces of nature.

Even seemingly abstract designs were often derived from certain details found in nature.


Unparalleled Craftsmanship Tradition

Every piece of BUCCELLATI jewelry is the result of combined efforts from artists and craftsmen. BUCCELLATI captures the beautiful fragments of art and nature that people yearn for, with each piece being unique and irreplaceable. “Craftsmanship” is the cornerstone of BUCCELLATI’s survival and development.

BUCCELLATI’s jewelry and silverware are crafted in workshops by experienced artisans trained in unique traditional techniques. Many of these artisans are descendants of the craftsmen who worked with the founder, Mario. BUCCELLATI’s iconic “textured engraving” rings take 4-6 months to complete.

Similarly, bracelets and necklaces require 2-3 years of processing, while creating a large piece of silverware demands a master craftsman’s full year of work.

BUCCELLATI history

This artistic creation process is currently carried out by over 70 Italian artisans who strictly adhere to completing all procedures by hand. This includes sketching, openwork piercing, cutting, and polishing, among other processes, all meticulously executed by hand. A single minor mistake means starting the entire work over.

To ensure the best balance between strength and aesthetics, BUCCELLATI maintains an almost rigorous quality inspection procedure throughout the process to guarantee the perfection of each product. BUCCELLATI’s “made-to-order” custom principle is a proud feature. Each high-end custom piece begins with a hand-drawn sketch, aiming to fulfill each client’s special requirements and create highly personalized masterpieces.

BUCCELLATI possesses a distinctive style characterized by top-quality materials, exquisite handwork, and ultimate perfection. What sets BUCCELLATI apart is the artistic sense behind its jewelry designs; BUCCELLATI’s works are not merely jewelry but transcend jewelry itself. Each piece, if not a miracle of craftsmanship, is a unique masterpiece.

It’s a true embodiment of art. In every BUCCELLATI creation, the most important aspect is the manifestation of a unique imprint, as if softly whispering about perfect quality, extraordinary taste, and contemporary style.

In 1981, the President of Italy awarded BUCCELLATI the “Grand Cross of Knights” medal to recognize its development of jewelry craftsmanship into ultimate art. This honor presented the world with romantic art and skilled craftsmanship, which precisely represent the essence of the Renaissance and BUCCELLATI’s eternal refined style.


Continuing the Noble Artistic Lineage

Through three generations, BUCCELLATI has maintained an unwavering devotion to quality and craftsmanship. Nevertheless, each generation of inheritors has developed or is developing their own style, providing BUCCELLATI with new inspiration and room for growth.

BUCCELLATI history

BUCCELLATI’s unique style has many ways of expressing itself. Sometimes, the differences in artistic characteristics between generations have led to the brand’s continuous innovations and experiments. For BUCCELLATI, the word “beautiful” not only describes appearance but also expresses admiration for class, style, and harmonious living itself.

Integrating the finest craftsmanship throughout jewelry and silverware production, a rigorous attitude, superior skills, and precisely coordinated proportions give BUCCELLATI its unparalleled advantage. This allows for clear interpretation of every design detail. BUCCELLATI jewelry is 100% handmade, with each piece requiring the collaboration of about six craftsmen, each with their own expertise, using ancient tools.

BUCCELLATI prioritizes the aesthetic value that jewelry materials can bring to a piece, rather than focusing on their monetary worth. In every BUCCELLATI creation, the expensive materials used are secondary to its design and craftsmanship: BUCCELLATI’s designed jewelry is not a pedestal for many beautiful gems, but a stunning, rich whole of interwoven materials. Style, perfect integration of elements, and the craftsmen’s skills are of utmost importance.

BUCCELLATI history

Although BUCCELLATI has branches in Tokyo, Monte Carlo, and the United States, the BUCCELLATI boutique on Via di Condotti in Rome is the best testament to BUCCELLATI’s glorious achievements. Interestingly, this store is the only BUCCELLATI jewelry shop in the world still operating at its original location.

With branches worldwide, BUCCELLATI has never intended to design jewelry for everyone. It dedicates everything to those who share the same spirit and passion, as this spirit and passion have been diligently developed and passed down through generations. BUCCELLATI will continue to seek new development opportunities worldwide, but quality will never be compromised for quantity.

The name “BUCCELLATI” explicitly means “extraordinary quality” and represents the classical charm contained in contemporary jewelry.


Brand Products


DREAM BRACELETS Collection

Each piece in the Dream Bracelets collection showcases BUCCELLATI’s iconic quality. The handcrafted, fabric-like texture of the metal beautifully complements the sparkling gemstones and inlays, blending classic and modern styles. While the bracelets appear small and delicate, they present an unparalleled complexity in craftsmanship that only true connoisseurs can appreciate.

BUCCELLATI DREAM BRACELETS Collection

PREMIUM BAND RINGS Collection

BUCCELLATI is renowned for its incomparable, awe-inspiring craftsmanship. The process of “creating” masterpieces is filled with authenticity and nobility.

The Band Rings collection bears witness to the immense value concept of craftsmanship and is highly distinctive: each perforation is meticulously polished, the balance between void and solid is crucial, engraving gives the metal a soft quality, while the central gemstone brings the precious and unique craftsmanship to life. BUCCELLATI boldly contrasts, celebrates uniqueness, and showcases colors, leaving observers in awe.

BUCCELLATI PREMIUM BAND RINGS Collection

Cocktail Rings Collection

The Cocktail Rings collection evokes the charm and romance of 1920s America. Amethysts, topazes, garnets, and tanzanites shimmer in a dreamlike, brilliant environment, truly a visual feast.

BUCCELLATI Cocktail Rings Collection

BAND RINGS Collection

BUCCELLATI is passionate about “hand-carved craftsmanship.” To “create” a physical object means to produce something genuine and noble. The Band Rings embody the concept of pursuing extremely high value and recognizability in handcrafted pieces. Each openwork design is meticulously carved, with perfectly balanced proportions between solid and void areas.

The textured engraving technique gives the hard metal a soft, fabric-like beauty, while rare craftsmanship techniques bring the central gemstone designs to life. BUCCELLATI dares to compare, champions uniqueness, and emphasizes color variations. The creations are so stunning that they leave us speechless.

BUCCELLATI BAND RINGS Collection

ONLY GOLD Collection

Through the magic of gold thread and BUCCELLATI’s creativity, jewelry presents ultimate beauty with ever-changing shapes, volumes, and diamond brilliance.

BUCCELLATI ONLY GOLD Collection

BUBU CHILD Collection

The Bubu collection vividly showcases childlike vivacity and adorableness. It symbolizes childhood and play, carefree times and joy. The silhouette of Bubu the bear appears on pendants and bracelets. It’s an ideal gift for births or birthdays.

BUCCELLATI: The Italian Jewel Challenging Van Cleef & Arpels’ Crown


Further Reading