The Evolution of Elegance: How Fashion and Jewelry Shaped Women’s Liberation

Like all elements in society, jewelry and fashion are cultural symbols of their time. Their symbiotic relationship reflects the social characteristics of a particular era and place. From the broader perspective of social and civilizational development, what women wear and the jewelry they choose to pair with their outfits are the most direct and enduring microcosms of an era’s civilization and progress.

Two hundred years ago in Europe, tight-fitting, low-cut women’s tops were in vogue. Lace and ruffles adorned women’s graceful figures, while oversized diamond and gemstone brooches for bodices were all the rage in high society. Although women appeared elegant and glamorous, their large skirts and hefty jewelry restricted their movement, making them seem more like beautiful dolls than independent, free individuals.

Queen Alexandra of England wearing a tight corset and crinoline dress adorned with numerous elaborate jewels
Queen Alexandra of England wearing a tight corset and crinoline dress adorned with numerous elaborate jewels

In the 1920s, Coco Chanel liberated French women’s bodies with her loose-fitting, waistless Black Jacket. Later, she freed women’s hands with the 2.55 chain bag. At the time, she rebelled against mainstream society and gained a large following in the fashion world. Plastic pearls and synthetic pearls were flamboyantly used as accessories, further demonstrating Chanel’s playful challenge to refined jewelry.

During this period, women were no longer birds trapped in gilded cages. They could venture out of their homes, participate in more social activities, and live more authentically as themselves. Everything had changed.

Coco Chanel, the "fashion pioneer" who liberated women from restrictive clothing
Coco Chanel, the “fashion pioneer” who liberated women from restrictive clothing

In China, during approximately the same era, the majority of women, except for a very small number with overseas experience, primarily wore the qipao (cheongsam) style, which was the most popular at the time. The subtle sensuality unique to Eastern women required complementary jewelry to complete the look.

Pearls, with their smooth and gentle beauty, have a noticeable presence without being overly sharp, making them the perfect companion for the qipao. Jade, due to its inherent nature, already possesses the innate advantage of representing “a gentleman’s virtue.” Moreover, the green hue and translucency of top-quality jade naturally became the favorite choice for Chinese women when paired with meticulously tailored high-end silk qipaos.

In the TV series "Oriental Battlefield," Yu Fei Hong portrays Soong Mei-ling wearing jade earrings and a pearl brooch with her qipao
In the TV series “Oriental Battlefield,” Yu Fei Hong portrays Soong Mei-ling wearing jade earrings and a pearl brooch with her qipao

Fashion and jewelry are an inseparable golden duo. Without the right jewelry to accentuate it, even the most beautiful clothing seems to have lost a part of its soul. All external presentations are manifestations of one’s inner spiritual core. We often say, “You are what you wear,” but this “wear” also includes the meaning of “adorn.” A person’s overall image is undoubtedly the sum of perfectly matched clothing and jewelry.

Today’s fashion and jewelry scenes are flourishing with diversity, which can sometimes be overwhelming. Fashion always leads the trends, with each season bringing more new trends and terminology that flood the entire fashion world. While jewelry trends do evolve, they do so much more slowly compared to fashion. It’s as if jewelry is using its own stance to tell the rapidly changing fashion trends: “Don’t get lost in the ‘dizzying array of flowers’; you should have your own convictions.”

There are endless topics to discuss regarding the relationship between fashion and jewelry, but the most important aspect is not their relationship to each other. Rather, it’s about how we, as individuals, find our unique choices among the many possible combinations of fashion and jewelry. After all, fashion is fleeting, but style endures. This style is your unique, eternal charm that only concerns you and has nothing to do with anything else.

Boucheron
Histoire de Style, The Power of Couture
High Jewelry Collection
Col white gold, diamond, and crystal necklace, convertible to a brooch and choker
Boucheron
Histoire de Style, The Power of Couture
High Jewelry Collection
Col white gold, diamond, and crystal necklace, convertible to a brooch and choker

The Evolution of Elegance: How Fashion and Jewelry Shaped Women’s Liberation