The Glamorous Fusion: When Fashion Becomes Jewelry and Jewelry Transforms into Couture

Chanel
Tweed de Chanel Fine Jewelry Collection
Tweed Pastel Bracelet

When it comes to fashion, the topics that immediately come to mind for anyone are undoubtedly clothing and jewelry.

Regardless of nationality, culture, or style, fashion and jewelry have always been important carriers of classic elements and design trends. They evolve with the times, constantly creating new surprises and allowing people to experience more beauty and creativity. Fashion and jewelry can be said to be the undisputed leaders in the fashion world’s power of discourse. This is because jewelry and clothing have the most intimate relationship with people.

What clothes we wear and what jewelry we adorn ourselves with express our emotions, personalities, and attitudes towards life, forming many aesthetic trends and zeitgeists worthy of attention. Jewelry and fashion influence and complement each other, and these new changes have opened up more possibilities for creativity and styling!

Boucheron
Histoire de Style, The Power of Couture High Jewelry Collection
Boucheron
Histoire de Style, The Power of Couture High Jewelry Collection

In exploring the combination of jewelry and fashion, it’s not difficult to discover the infinite possibilities and innovative value of their fusion. This unique way of wearing undoubtedly finds a perfect balance between tradition and modernity, highlighting individuality while being full of fashion sense.


New High Jewelry Infused with Fashion Inspiration

Jewelry and fashion are essentially artistic creations, and those sparkling gemstone elements are also eye-catching in clothing. In 16th century Europe, royalty and nobility would embed gems and pearls into dresses or hats as decorations. We can see this in many portraits of the famous French Queen Catherine de’ Medici, where her clothing appears like a work of art.

Portrait of French Queen Catherine de' Medici, 1550
Currently housed in the Uffizi Gallery
Portrait of French Queen Catherine de’ Medici, 1550
Currently housed in the Uffizi Gallery

Even hundreds of years later, while even the highest custom designs rarely use real gemstones, the sparkling elements of jewelry continue to set trends in the fashion world. For example, the combination of Swarovski crystals with clothing, and bold creative uses of pearls and metal chains have become classics in the fashion circle.

Jewelry brands also innovate designs to play with fashion inspiration. In Boucheron’s 2023 Cart Blanche, More is More high jewelry collection, many pieces can become part of clothing. Jewelry can exist as pockets or as drawstring pendants on hoodies, subverting imagination while displaying ultra-cool street fashion.

Boucheron
Cart Blanche, More is More
High Jewelry Collection
Boucheron
Cart Blanche, More is More
High Jewelry Collection

Runway Interpretations Open Eyes

Fashion and jewelry have long become indispensable to each other, constantly blending and jointly interpreting more diverse brilliance. The fashion show created by Messika in collaboration with the famous Kate Moss proved the statement “jewelry is an important part of creating an overall look”. Kate not only participated in jewelry design personally, but Messika also broke the diamond-dominated tradition for her, bringing malachite and turquoise to the stage.

Large-sized earrings and vintage-style rings paired with form-fitting evening gowns and high-waisted satin trousers showcased the charm of confident and fashionable women.

Messika
Messika by Kate Moss High Jewelry Collection
Messika
Messika by Kate Moss High Jewelry Collection

Wearable jewelry clothing is another high-level play. What would it look like if microscopic details were magnified and transformed into tops? The collaboration between Loewe and sculptor Lynda Benglis provided an answer, with layered floral shapes and stark color contrasts subverting traditional impressions of fashion.

Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show
Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

If you look at the resumes of famous designers in jewelry history, you’ll find that many of them worked for fashion brands or had experience designing clothes and accessories before entering the jewelry world. These “all-around talents” not only understand jewelry but also draw inspiration from fashion for their creations, constantly pushing forward the renewal of jewelry styles and appearances.


Genius Jewelry Designer — JAR

In the eyes of many jewelry designers and senior collectors, JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) is an admired “super idol” and a Harvard graduate. The reason his unique design style continues to have widespread influence is not only due to his innovative spirit and avant-garde taste but also his inseparable connection with fashion.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal (right) and partner
Pierre Jeannet
Joel Arthur Rosenthal (right) and partner
Pierre Jeannet

In the 1960s, JAR, who ran an embroidery shop in Paris, had already begun to show a keen sense of color, constantly creating new yarn colors and winning the favor of haute couture brands such as Hermès and Valentino.

In subsequent creations, he broke the boundaries between fashion and jewelry, developing new techniques to achieve ideal design effects. The Tweed Setting is a unique technique inspired by embroidery, where gemstones of different shades are densely set together, resembling tweed fabric in clothing. More uniquely, JAR inverted the gems with their points facing upwards, making the texture more prominent and three-dimensional, like woven thread.

Parrot Tulip bracelet designed by JAR, 1994
Christie's Geneva, November 2014
Estimate: 190,000-290,000 Swiss Francs
Sold for: 3,525,000 Swiss Francs
Parrot Tulip bracelet designed by JAR, 1994
Christie’s Geneva, November 2014
Estimate: 190,000-290,000 Swiss Francs
Sold for: 3,525,000 Swiss Francs

Tiffany’s Treasure Master — Jean Schlumberger

In Tiffany’s annual Blue Book high jewelry collection, there are almost always classic designs by Jean Schlumberger. His influence in the jewelry world needs no elaboration, but what you might not know is that many of his familiar works are closely related to his years in the fashion industry.

Jean Schlumberger
Jean Schlumberger

During his tenure at Tiffany, he distilled the essence of fashion design into his creations, crafting dynamic lines of various forms and inheriting his family’s textile tradition through ingeniously woven gold textures. Through the clever combination of gemstones and metals, fabric textures became three-dimensional in jewelry, presenting a distinct sculptural feel.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Tiffany's
Ribbon Rosette necklace
Audrey Hepburn wearing Tiffany’s
Ribbon Rosette necklace

The Bold Queen — Jeanne Toussaint

Jeanne Toussaint is a legendary designer who created countless classics such as the Panther and Fruit Salad collections. Born into a family that made high-end lace, craftsmanship had always been a part of Toussaint’s life. Her bold and fashionable handbag designs were her first “calling card” in the Parisian fashion world.

Jeanne Toussaint
Jeanne Toussaint

She added flaps and scarf-decorated chains to handbags and even upgraded them to fit books, truly meeting women’s evolving needs with a series of innovative designs. After joining Cartier, she also custom-designed glamorous clutches and other small accessories for many celebrity ladies, essential for social occasions.

This pioneering woman in the design world rewrote Cartier’s style history with her strong capabilities. In 2014, on the 100th anniversary of the Panther motif, the brand specially launched a handbag named “Toussaint” to commemorate her contributions.

Cartier
Jeanne Toussaint Lady's Series Clutch
Cartier
Jeanne Toussaint Lady’s Series Clutch

As fashion trends constantly change, clothing designs evolve accordingly. When elements such as color, texture, and craftsmanship are incorporated into jewelry design, they provide us with a new perspective.


Replacing Collars with Jewelry

The predecessor of the jewelry collar was the “Ruff Collar” from the Renaissance period. From intricate ruffles to increasingly exaggerated and luxurious collars, it was once a classic decoration for European royalty to showcase their power. Jewelry designers captured this inspiration, creating independent “jewelry collars” that fit closely to the skin and come in various shapes, using colorful gemstones and novel materials.

Boucheron
Cart Blanche, Ailleurs High Jewelry Collection
Rotin Diamant Collar-style Necklace
Boucheron
Cart Blanche, Ailleurs High Jewelry Collection
Rotin Diamant Collar-style Necklace
Boucheron
New Maharani Necklace
Boucheron
New Maharani Necklace
Mikimoto
Jeux de Rubans High Jewelry Series Necklace
Mikimoto
Jeux de Rubans High Jewelry Series Necklace

Shirt Cuffs Can Be Bracelets

Cuff bracelets have been favored by celebrities in recent years, frequently appearing on red carpets. However, as early as the 20th century, they had already become a popular choice for individual styling, loved by fashion icons such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Coco Chanel, and Elizabeth Taylor.

Coco Chanel and Verdura
Coco Chanel and Verdura

The inspiration for cuff bracelets comes from men’s shirt cuffs. Coco Chanel and Verdura created this classic style of bracelet based on this, showcasing women’s multifaceted character and attracting many celebrities.

Verdura
Kensington Cuff Bracelet
Verdura
Kensington Cuff Bracelet

Can Zippers Be Made into Jewelry?

The Duchess of Windsor proposed the idea of replacing ordinary zippers with jewelry necklaces made of precious metals. This “client request” alone took Van Cleef & Arpels 11 years to successfully transform the zipper, originally used to fasten boots, into a fashionable jewelry piece.

This “two-way journey” of innovation continues to this day, with zipper necklaces becoming more versatile in design, emerging as trendy pieces that combine both classic and creative elements in collectors’ hearts across different periods.

Zipper necklace design sketch, circa 1951
From the Van Cleef & Arpels archives
Zipper necklace design sketch, circa 1951
From the Van Cleef & Arpels archives
Van Cleef & Arpels
Zipper necklace launched in 2011
Van Cleef & Arpels
Zipper necklace launched in 2011

Even the smallest elements, color blocks, and textures in fashion seem to become sources of inspiration for jewelry designers. Under different themes and styles, colorful gemstones and materials are transformed into multi-layered pleats, fabric textures, and delicate patterns.

Behind these fashion-inspired creations sweeping the jewelry world is a collection of exquisite craftsmanship, from gemstone setting to frame construction, with each step being ingeniously executed.


Pleated Skirts + Diamond Setting = More Sophisticated Fashion

The details in haute couture are clever designs worth savoring, with pleated skirts being a particularly wonderful example. Replicating these pleated textures in jewelry is even more challenging, not only due to spatial limitations but also the difficulty of setting hard gemstones on three-dimensional curved metal frames.

To achieve this, many artisans have developed unique techniques to interpret different types of pleated skirts, whether sleek and avant-garde or elegant and romantic, allowing us to experience the charm of fashion through jewelry.

Dior
Archi Dior High Jewelry Collection 18K Gold and Diamond Bracelet
Dior
Archi Dior High Jewelry Collection 18K Gold and Diamond Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels
Adage à la rose Ballerina Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels
Adage à la rose Ballerina Brooch
Piaget
Extremely Piaget High Jewelry Collection
18K Gold, Diamond, and Turquoise Bracelet
Piaget
Extremely Piaget High Jewelry Collection
18K Gold, Diamond, and Turquoise Bracelet

Fashion Prints + Gemstone Combinations = More Dimensional Surfaces

The printed patterns in haute couture are designers’ clever thoughts. When presented in jewelry, patterns composed of gemstones become more three-dimensional and vivid, allowing for 360-degree appreciation.

Different sizes and colors of gemstones are carefully selected and arranged, making jewelry prints colorful and dazzling. For example, in Dior’s Dior Print series, floral patterns are composed of colored gemstones, shining even more brilliantly against a background of white diamonds. Simple two-tone checks and stripes are also harmonious choices, appearing like handwoven fabrics from afar but revealing three-dimensional vibrancy upon closer inspection, offering a varied visual experience.

Dior
Dior Print High Jewelry Collection Necklace
Dior
Dior Print High Jewelry Collection Necklace

Fabric Weaving + Metal Assembly = Soft and Shiny

High-end fashion is meticulous from the selection of fabrics, and jewelry “fabrics” “woven” from metal equally embody profound craftsmanship. In 2023, Chanel launched the Tweed de Chanel Fine Jewelry Collection, focusing on recreating the classic tweed fabric concept in jewelry.

The interwoven appearance of each piece of jewelry seems to merely “replicate” the fabric, but it actually tests craftsmanship techniques to the extreme. The seemingly continuous chains in the jewelry actually need to be divided into several parts and connected at each intersection to make the jewelry as delicate and soft as fabric, presenting the fluidity and multiple textures you see.

Chanel
Tweed de Chanel Fine Jewelry Collection
Tweed Pastel Bracelet
Chanel
Tweed de Chanel Fine Jewelry Collection
Tweed Pastel Bracelet

After seeing so many jewelry pieces inspired by fashion, which elements of current popular fashion do you think could provide new inspiration for jewelry design? Feel free to discuss actively in the comments section. Lastly, don’t forget to share with your friends and discover new fashion inspirations in life together!

The Glamorous Fusion: When Fashion Becomes Jewelry and Jewelry Transforms into Couture