As the scorching summer heat sets in, women everywhere are reaching for their perfume collections. It’s often said that you can know a woman by her scent, but some fragrances allow you to sense “brilliance” through scent. These are not just olfactory delights but also connect with our visual senses, emotions, and memories. We’re talking about “perfumes” launched by jewelry brands – more than just a scent, they create an entire style.
In ancient times, pleasant aromas held even more mystical significance than they do today. Many ancient civilizations believed that burning incense was a direct way to communicate with the gods. Thus, the earliest aromatic jewelry served a dual purpose: it was both a charm to please the deities and an amulet to protect the wearer.
The earliest known aromatic jewelry was an Egyptian necklace made of scented beads. These beads were created using an ancient formula consisting of ambergris, rose water, saffron, cloves, musk, and nutmeg. It’s said that the fragrance of these necklaces could last for years without fading. Interestingly, Chinese people today are also captivated by self-scented jewelry. Regardless of gender, agarwood bracelets or jewelry firmly hold their place in new Chinese-style jewelry.
Fast forward to the Middle Ages, an era when people feared bathing, yet body odor didn’t diminish with noble status. Fortunately, the Crusaders brought back large quantities of spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, and cloves from the East, though these were extremely expensive, almost on par with gold. European royalty and nobility quickly invented a striking way to flaunt their fragrant treasures – pomander jewelry.
The noble girl in the painting is flaunting ambergris
Pomanders were made of silver or gold, shaped like apples or oranges, designed to protect spices and diffuse fragrance. They opened on hinges and contained perfume or mixed spices. Large pomanders hung from chains at the waist, while smaller ones, about the size of a thimble, could be worn on bracelets, necklaces, or rings.
1300-1400, from the V&A Museum
To ward off the Black Death ravaging Europe, pomanders were seen as powerful amulets and symbols of status. These pomanders were designed with exquisite beauty, inlaid with gold and jewels, and their complex internal structures showcased superior craftsmanship.
The first alcohol-based perfume was invented in the late 14th century. This marked a watershed moment for perfumes, making them easier to produce and thus more accessible. This convenience finally made perfumes no longer the exclusive domain of sacred nobility. By the 17th century, pomanders had evolved into spray forms, more suitable for fragrance diffusion.
By the 18th century, perfume had entered the realm of fashion. Due to the popularity of corsets, pomanders were made into smelling salts. These had strong rather than sweet scents, used to stimulate and revitalize. They became essential decorative and first-aid items for ladies, often hanging at the waist.
The same was true in China, though we called them sachet pouches. Nobles used jewelry sachets made of gold and jade, while commoners chose fabric pouches, showcasing their embroidery skills. Whether it was the jewelry sachets used by nobles or the embroidered sachets used by common people, they all emphasized exquisite beauty. The sachets used in the imperial court, in particular, were the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
Collection of the Palace Museum
Collection of the National Palace Museum, Taipei
Collection of the National Palace Museum, Taipei
By the 20th century, smelling salts had become outdated, and liquid perfumes gained popularity. However, aromatic jewelry did not disappear. From Cartier to Tiffany, every major jewelry company developed and sold some form of aromatic jewelry. For socialites who loved parties, these fragrant jewels remained indispensable.
Circa 1800
Mid-20th century
Collection of the Immigration Museum of São Paulo State
The deep connection between perfume and jewelry has inspired many jewelry brands to design interesting “perfume jewelry” based on the concept of perfume bottles. Whether or not they actually contain perfume, these pieces evoke dreamy associations of lingering fragrances.
Gold, platinum, enamel, agate, citrine, moonstone, jade
Ruby, diamond
Inheriting the Dual Luxury Experience: Jewelry Brands Are the Experts
Cartier has created numerous eccentric custom jewelry pieces for wealthy clients, including refillable jewelry perfume bottles. For example, this gourd-shaped perfume pendant from the 1940s was crafted in gold and adorned with diamonds and pearls. It features a 1920 French Louis XIII gold coin, making it highly collectible. The tourmaline-decorated perfume stick can be opened and refilled infinitely, perfectly matching the high-quality lifestyle pursued by the wealthy.
Gold, pearls, diamonds, tourmaline
And a 1920 French Louis XIII gold coin
Cartier frequently draws inspiration from perfumes. They not only launched the Sortilège de Cartier high jewelry collection inspired by five fragrances but also introduced the Inde Mystérieuse high jewelry collection in 2007. Inspired by mystical India, where fragrance is undoubtedly a characteristic of ancient culture, the collection features a modern version of a perfume pendant necklace.
Cartier leveraged its expertise in gemstone carving to create a delicate perfume bottle shape from rose quartz. The bottle’s surface retains the carved decorations of a “fruit pouch,” with 62 brilliant-cut round diamonds pavé-set on the bail, pendant top, and bottom.
Perfume pendant necklace
Rose quartz, tourmaline, diamonds
This piece is not just a perfume bottle in appearance; it can actually hold perfume and diffuse fragrance. When the stopper is opened, it reveals a perfume compartment and a perfume stick adorned with a red tourmaline. The necklace’s length is adjustable for various wearing styles.
Cartier has created many similar designs in various materials, but overall production has been limited. Today, these pieces can only be found in auction houses and antique shops.
Platinum, morganite, spinel, diamonds
Crystal, pearl, banded agate, diamonds
Rose gold, crystal, agate, spinel, diamonds
Diamonds, Paraiba tourmaline, rubellite, amethyst, banded agate
Chanel’s No. 5 perfume is considered the pinnacle of fashion brand fragrances. As you know, their high jewelry has always focused on paying tribute to the various classic imprints left by Coco Chanel herself. How could they miss the famous No. 5 perfume? In 2021, on the 100th anniversary of this legendary fragrance, Chanel launched the N°5 Collection de Haute Joaillerie to pay homage to it.
Sparkling Silhouette earrings and necklace
From the perfume bottle to the stopper, and the delicate fragrance, the unique aspects of this perfume are fully reflected in every detail of the 123 pieces in the collection.
Golden Burst yellow gold and platinum necklace
Set with topaz and diamonds
Eternal No 5 white gold diamond-set ring and necklace
The highlight piece is a necklace named “55.55”. Its center stone is a D-color flawless diamond, custom-cut by Chanel to exactly 55.55 carats, paying full tribute to the brand founder’s lucky number. It is surrounded by 104 round diamonds and 42 baguette diamonds, reminiscent of perfume droplets, allowing you to sense the fragrance of the perfume visually.
Main stone weighing 55.55 carats
Tiffany’s socialite designer Elsa Peretti successfully crossed over from the fashion world to the jewelry world with her perfume pendants. This socialite-turned-model ultimately became one of Tiffany’s legendary in-house designers. Her initial “stepping stone” jewelry piece was a perfume pendant called “Open Bottle.”
Surprising? Not really, because the 1970s was precisely when all fashion brands were rushing to launch perfumes, and more than one or two brands had models wearing fashionable perfume pendant necklaces or other perfume jewelry on the runway.
Poison perfume bracelet, 1986
At that time, Elsa Peretti, who had come to New York to make her mark, had already become a muse and supermodel in the fashion world. She also used her unique taste to design accessories. The Open Bottle necklace was an accessory she designed for the Sant’Angelo fashion show in 1969.
As soon as it debuted, it immediately became the best-selling item of the year. At the time, models inserted a small rose into the tiny vase. Later, in an interview with Vanity Fair, Elsa Peretti said, “Everyone wanted that little bottle.”
Elsa Peretti Open Bottle pendant necklace
Elsa Peretti had always been the inspirational muse for American fashion designer Halston. This design, inspired by her memory of young girls holding gardenias in Portofino, also appeared on his runway in 1974, with Elsa Peretti herself modeling it. She later explained that she wanted to design a bottle that could be carried around to preserve the beauty of flowers.
Elsa Peretti Open Bottle pendant necklace
It was Halston who introduced her to Walter Hoving, then CEO of Tiffany & Co. In just 20 minutes, Tiffany decided to sign this genius designer. Indeed, Elsa Peretti brought revolution to Tiffany, a revolution that fit perfectly with the spirit of the times.
She brought the fun of everyday life into jewelry design, made silver popular again, and all her works emphasized the “relaxed feel” of jewelry. Whether in shape, material, or way of wearing, she demonstrated a modern, relaxed, life-enjoying aesthetic.
Elsa Peretti improved her Open Bottle design for Tiffany. It evolved into various shapes and materials and could be divided into two types: when open, it’s a small, sculptural vase, but with a gemstone lid, it becomes a perfume pendant. Yes, this is her “magic” for extending the life of flowers – even if you can’t see the flowers, you can still feel their fragrance.
Elsa Peretti Open Bottle pendant necklace
Stylish + Unique: Independent Jewelry Designers’ “Aromatic Magic”
Today’s independent jewelry designers haven’t missed out on the dual enjoyment of subtle fragrance. Their perfume jewelry designs focus on being stylish and unique.
For instance, Katherine Jetter uses a collected ancient Roman bronze perfume bottle as the main body, adorning it with champagne diamonds and gold, combining 2000-year-old history with modernism, emphasizing a lingering fragrance that transcends time and space.
Dionea Orcini draws inspiration from the medieval concept of viewing perfume balls as amulets. She creates the Porfumo amulet with gold and diamonds. When the openwork perfume ball is opened, it reveals a silk rose emitting a jasmine scent.
Gold, diamonds, citrine, pearls
Sophie Rubel shares a similar approach. When she chose to revive the family brand John Rubel, she drew inspiration from the jewelry perfume bottle created by her great-uncle John Rubel in 1944. She recreated it with platinum, gold, turquoise, diamonds, and sapphires, turning it into an amulet necklace that can be carried and diffuse fragrance.
Gold, turquoise, ruby
Turquoise, diamonds, sapphires
Turkish jewelry designer Melike Kapıcıoğlu’s “Swan Love” perfume jewelry is inspired by a love story written in 1027. The book describes a love necklace that would never be removed until death, representing a pair of swans closely connected by the chain of love.
Swan Love perfume pendant
Gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds
This was just the first chapter of her perfume jewelry designs. Later, she successively launched various interesting perfume pendants in the “Scent of Love” series, including reversible planet pendants. She firmly believes that fragrance adds an intangible charm to jewelry, can evoke emotional memories, and can combine more closely with the wearer to leave a deep impression.
Perfume pendant
Jacquie Aiche takes the magic of “amulets” to the extreme, choosing gemstones with powerful healing properties to create perfume bottles. For example, lapis lazuli aids creative expression, turquoise possesses healing power, and of course, crystal is most soothing to the spirit. She then fills them with aromatherapy essential oils, giving the wearer a triple effect – protection, beauty, and alluring fragrance.
In addition to perfume jewelry that leaves people wanting more, many major jewelry brands have also launched their own specially blended jewelry fragrances. Each one goes to great lengths to let you appreciate the charm of jewelry through the suggestion of fragrance.
Famous French perfumer Mathilde Laurent once said, “The history of French perfume and high jewelry is closely intertwined; they have always been the exclusive preserve of kings and gods.”
As early as 1884, in the French novel “Adversity,” the art of perfumers extracting essential oils from flowers was compared to the art of jewelry designers crafting precious stones into exquisite jewelry. Later, in 1907, Art Nouveau style jewelry master René Lalique created his own perfume, which may have been the first fragrance created by a jewelry brand.
Bvlgari Le Gemme
Taking You into the World of Colored Gemstones
Since 2016, Bvlgari has launched 11 fragrances in its Le Gemme series. As the name suggests, this jewelry brand famous for colored gemstones draws inspiration from various colored stones, inviting LVMH group’s chief perfumer Jacques Cavallier to create custom scents for them.
Jacques Cavallier says, “The incense we use is the same as that used by Egyptians and Greeks 4,000-5,000 years ago. This was the first way people communicated with gods because incense produces a very white smoke that reaches heaven. So, every time I smell incense, I feel a connection to ancient times. I’ve preserved this spiritual connection in the Le Gemme series.”
After collaborating with Bvlgari for nearly 30 years, Jacques Cavallier was deeply inspired by the brand’s extreme use of color. He established a kind of olfactory synesthesia, matching natural materials with the colors of gemstones. This third-generation perfumer says, “I can see smells. Each gemstone corresponds to an image. For example, musk should be like gold, playing a stabilizing role in jewelry while also being fluid.”
In 2018, another master perfumer, Alberto Morillas, carefully crafted three fragrances for Le Gemme Reali, inspired by the 6th-century Byzantine Empress Theodora, who loved sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. The perfumes are contained in black glass bottles, and for the first time, Bvlgari embedded corresponding convex gemstones on the bottle caps, decorated with the brand’s iconic golden octagon.
Alberto Morillas says, “Perfume is like jewelry, set in gemstones. I created this trilogy around sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, inspired by the way Bvlgari cuts and polishes them.”
Tiffany Rose Gold
Finding That Blue Rose
When creating Rose Gold and its more intense follow-up product Rose Gold Intense for Tiffany, master perfumer Jérôme Epinette was similarly inspired by the brand’s colors. He says, “When you see Tiffany, you find a lot of blue, so for me, there was no other choice but the rare blue rose from Japan, which was the perfect rose I wanted.”
Rose is the main note in many perfumes, but the key is how to present it and make it feel modern. So the perfumer tried to combine golden wood with blue roses to evoke a unique “harmony” of mixed scents.
Cartier La Panthère Lègère
Appreciating the Charm of Felines
Cartier not only created many jewelry perfume bottles for clients in the 19th century but also has its own perfume series. As early as 1938, Cartier’s High Jewelry Creative Director Jeanne Toussaint registered the name Cartier Parfums and began collaborating with perfumers to create fragrances.
Indeed, the creator of the panther opened the history of Cartier perfumes. However, the real “panther perfume” was not launched until 2014, personally created by Cartier’s resident master perfumer Mathilde Laurent.
La Panthère perfume uses panther elements in its bottle design, with the iconic panther pattern carved inside the perfume bottle. Its scent is primarily based on gardenia. Mathilde Laurent explains, “The panther is very special. I wanted to present a new feminine quality that’s not in the market. I wanted to use civet and musk to create the scent of big cats.
At the same time, I chose gardenia, which used to appear frequently in perfume history but is rarely used now. I like the sense of history it represents, which fits well with Cartier’s panther series.”
In this scorching summer, why not try jewelry with its own fragrance? At the very least, you can try the perfumes launched by jewelry brands to get a taste of the scent of gemstones. When visual and olfactory senses are combined, you will surely be not just dazzling this summer, but the lingering fragrance will be an intriguing beauty.
Beat the Heat: Discover the Magical Allure of Perfume Jewelry This Summer!
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