2024 Jewelry Trend: Embrace Your Inner Warrior Princess with the Bold ‘Female Samurai Style’!

When it comes to the “Female Samurai Style,” we can’t ignore the rapid development of feminism in recent years. This movement has blossomed not only in music, film, literature, and other fields but has also made a bold statement in the fashion world.

Just look at Zendaya’s futuristic mechanical armor dress at the “Dune 2” premiere, or Louis Vuitton’s “female knight” high jewelry collection.

Today’s avant-garde women are seeking ultra-cool gear that makes a powerful first impression!

Zendaya
Zendaya
Louis Vuitton
The Riders of the Knights High Jewelry Collection
Reine Necklace
Louis Vuitton
The Riders of the Knights High Jewelry Collection
Reine Necklace

This is why many celebrities chose this fierce “Female Samurai Style” jewelry on the red carpets earlier this year, as previously noted by the editor. Among these pieces, choker necklaces were particularly eye-catching!

Historically, choker necklaces have represented rebellion and independence: Anne Boleyn’s choker with the initial “B” symbolized the awakening of female self-awareness, while the ribbon chokers worn by women during the French Revolution represented resistance and freedom.

Anne Boleyn wearing an initial "B" choker necklace
Anne Boleyn wearing an initial “B” choker necklace

So, what styles of choker necklaces are trending this year? Fashion icons are favoring designs that resemble the neck protection of armor, with more diverse and interesting materials, cleaner and more abstract lines, but always with a hardcore, modern sculptural feel. For example, let’s look at the stunning demonstrations by female stars on the Screen Actors Guild (SAG) Awards red carpet.

Carey Mulligan wearing a Fred Leighton collection
René Boivin gold and diamond necklace
Carey Mulligan wearing a Fred Leighton collection
René Boivin gold and diamond necklace
America Ferrera wearing a De Beers Metamorphosis 'Autumn' necklace
America Ferrera wearing a De Beers Metamorphosis ‘Autumn’ necklace
Ayo Edebiri wearing a Tabayer Oera white gold and diamond necklace
Ayo Edebiri wearing a Tabayer Oera white gold and diamond necklace

The editor particularly admires the 1930s René Boivin gold and diamond choker necklace from the Fred Leighton collection worn by Carey Mulligan.

This brand is likely familiar to vintage jewelry enthusiasts. Known as the “jeweler for intellectuals” since the early 20th century, it’s a veteran among independent designer jewelry brands.

What many might not know is that this brand strongly represents female empowerment. After rising to fame, founder René Boivin passed away prematurely in 1917. Surprisingly, his wife Jeanne Boivin continued the brand, becoming the world’s first female jewelry brand leader.

René Boivin Coulissant necklace
René Boivin Coulissant necklace

In the early 20th century, the jewelry world was entirely male-dominated, from brand leaders and designers to craftsmen and gemstone merchants. Yet Jeanne Boivin managed to carve out a place for herself in this competitive field. Moreover, she chose female designers, the most famous being Suzanne Belperron.

René Boivin
René Boivin

It was Jeanne Boivin who gave the newly graduated Suzanne Belperron her opportunity to enter the jewelry world, recognizing the potential of this future jewelry master. Many are familiar with the design style of this great 20th-century female jewelry designer: abstract lines, signature spiral patterns, unconventional use of various materials, and sculptural silhouettes. In fact, these were all hallmarks of René Boivin’s style, which Suzanne Belperron further developed and elevated.

Suzanne Belperron
Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron worked for René Boivin for 10 years, during which she met her future loyal partner, gemstone merchant Bernard Hertz. Wanting to develop her own style beyond the shadow of René Boivin, she left to become Bernard Hertz’s design director, finally free to express her personal aesthetic.

While Suzanne Belperron favored abstract expression, René Boivin drew considerable creative inspiration from naturalism. Juliet Mutard, another talented woman, succeeded Suzanne Belperron as designer. With her formal training and thorough understanding of craftsmanship and jewelry structure, she comprehensively carried forward René Boivin’s spiritual legacy.

René Boivin
René Boivin

Later, René Boivin’s daughter Germaine Boivin joined the brand, bringing a contemporary flair with her unique fashion sense.

Unfortunately, she lacked business acumen, and the brand was eventually acquired by Asprey, the British royal family’s jeweler, in the 1990s. It was permanently closed a few years later. Now, those seeking their pieces can only find them at auctions and antique shops, like the necklace Carey Mulligan wore, which came from antique jeweler Fred Leighton’s collection.

René Boivin
René Boivin

Such a brand with a strong feminine aesthetic is perfect for showcasing the female spirit, especially as several generations of designers excelled in creating choker necklaces. Perhaps they too believed that these bold, short necklaces were better suited to display women’s powerful aura.

It’s worth noting that the 1920s, the two World Wars, and the 1980s were all periods marked by feminist resurgence. During these times, every feminist fighter was a “female warrior,” and choosing such hardcore designs is an excellent tribute to the struggles and efforts of these predecessors.

René Boivin Coulissant necklace
René Boivin Coulissant necklace

Of course, modern jewelry brands haven’t missed this trend, with many launching their own new creations. For example, Messika’s Midnight Sun high jewelry collection emphasizes the strong aura of the 1980s. Several necklaces feature metallic silhouettes resembling armor neck guards, both dazzling and powerful, perfectly embodying the “Female Samurai Style.”

In De Beers’ Metamorphosis high jewelry collection, besides the Autumn necklace worn by America Ferrera, there’s an even cooler piece – the Summer necklace. It features pavé diamonds interspersed with a baguette-cut diamond band, emphasizing the overall three-dimensional effect of the necklace. The yellow diamond connecting the center exudes luxury, giving any woman wearing it a “I’m the queen” powerful aura.

De Beers
Metamorphosis High Jewelry Collection
Summer necklace
De Beers
Metamorphosis High Jewelry Collection
Summer necklace

Pomellato’s Duomo necklace from the Ode to Milan high jewelry collection departs from the brand’s signature rounded gemstone designs, creating a distinctly angular and cool aesthetic.

Pomellato
Ode to Milan High Jewelry Collection
Duomo necklace
Pomellato
Ode to Milan High Jewelry Collection
Duomo necklace

Independent designers haven’t missed this trend either, as they pride themselves on unique personalities. Nikos Koulis, J’OR, and Toktam all have many ultra-cool choker necklace designs that are modern, clean, bold, and ingenious.

For instance, Nikos Koulis’ Feel collection combines thick snake chains with diamonds to create a versatile soft-yet-hard quality. He’s particularly adept at using metals to create a sense of fluidity.

Toktam’s Rumi collection is inspired by a traditional dance performed by mendicant monks 700 years ago. The 18K gold chain, presenting cross shapes and curved edges, depicts the rotating silhouette of the monks’ skirts as they dance.

Toktam Rumi Choker necklace
Toktam Rumi Choker necklace

Attilio Gelpi and his wife Barbara created the Italian jewelry brand J’OR, known for combining Italian goldsmithing techniques with other materials to create rich textural effects. Their short necklaces always appear very powerful at first glance, but upon closer inspection reveal delicate variations.

JOR Gothica Choker necklace
Kunzite, mother-of-pearl, diamonds
JOR Gothica Choker necklace
Kunzite, mother-of-pearl, diamonds
J'OR Jewels Scarlet Kiss Choker necklace
18K rose gold, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, red tourmaline
J’OR Jewels Scarlet Kiss Choker necklace
18K rose gold, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, red tourmaline

The “Female Samurai Style” jewelry emphasizes inner spiritual strength. While bold choker necklaces provide an immediate presence, some “female warriors” prefer a more subtle, low-key approach. For them, cocktail rings, representing independence and rebellion, are the ideal choice.

These cocktail rings, evolved from men’s signet rings, became symbols of independent women in the 1920s. Today, their elaborate and rich designs exude an elite aura with every gesture.

J'OR cocktail ring
J’OR cocktail ring

Rings are the jewelry category farthest from the face, destined to be a “second glance” dazzler. Yet, they are dynamic pieces, constantly changing position with hand movements.

An interesting cocktail ring must first be eye-catching. Traditionally, the jewelry world focused on large, vibrant gemstone cocktail rings, competing more on materials than design, like Princess Diana’s iconic blue sapphire cocktail ring symbolizing independence. However, the 2024 “Female Samurai Style” trend is all about unique designs, the more distinctive, the better, showcasing designers’ creative ingenuity.

Diana's blue sapphire cocktail ring
Diana’s blue sapphire cocktail ring

De Beers has introduced impressive cocktail rings in their recent high jewelry collections. These feature large-scale designs with abstract lines creating imaginative shapes, and commendably, the designers have considered practicality. Many are multi-functional Jacket rings, which can be striking cocktail rings or transform into subtle diamond rings for formal occasions requiring traditional elegance.

Pomellato’s Scarabeo ring boldly combines contrasting carved amethyst with pavé emeralds, creating a vibrant and playful piece resembling an abstract beetle with a modern, exotic flair.

Pomellato Scarabeo ring
Amethyst, emerald
Pomellato Scarabeo ring
Amethyst, emerald

Saudi Arabian jewelry designer Danah Alfayez’s brand Obari draws inspiration from ancient Islamic architecture, constructing jewelry with openwork metal lines and gemstones set in “cages,” resulting in cocktail rings full of rational beauty.

Los Angeles jewelry designer Vram opts for modern sculptural designs in metal, eschewing gemstones. The streamlined curves and abstract silhouettes command attention on their own.

Vram Continuum series
Vram Continuum series

Even gemstone-focused designs differ from traditional large-stone showcases, emphasizing unique setting techniques for individual beauty.

For instance, Maddalena di Stefano’s cocktail rings may appear conventional, like classic Toi et Moi dual-stone designs, but designer Sabina Giuliani breaks traditional setting norms. She creates a three-dimensional layered effect by contrasting bezel-set diamonds with prong-set protruding red spinels, and uses round and pear-shaped spinels to create a gradient effect, resulting in a multi-layered visual illusion.

Glenn Spiro is known for bold use of color, treating various gemstones as his “paints.” He often layers these gemstones with crystal, giving both amethysts and emeralds a “base color” that makes the entire ring more striking.

Glenn Spiro cocktail ring
Amethyst, crystal, diamond
Glenn Spiro cocktail ring
Amethyst, crystal, diamond
Glenn Spiro cocktail ring
Emerald, crystal
Glenn Spiro cocktail ring
Emerald, crystal

If rings are the jewelry farthest from the face, then earrings are the “center stage” of the “center stage.” Women aiming for the “Female Samurai Style” absolutely cannot overlook this battleground. During awards seasons, celebrities have demonstrated this trend, moving away from classical chandelier earrings. Many strong-persona stars have opted for earrings with clean, crisp lines.

Well, how to put it? One can choose earrings like Jessica Chastain’s Reza emerald earrings, which emphasize a three-dimensional, weighty feel. Alternatively, one could follow Emma Corrin’s lead – who won an Emmy for Best Actress for her role as Princess Diana in “The Crown” – by choosing Cartier earrings that create a gradient line effect with diamonds and onyx, playing with light and shadow.

Jessica Chastain wearing Reza earrings at the Emmy Awards
Jessica Chastain wearing Reza earrings at the Emmy Awards
Reza earrings
Emerald, yellow diamond, white diamond
Reza earrings
Emerald, yellow diamond, white diamond
EMMA CORRIN wearing Cartier Libre Polymorph earrings at the BAFTA
EMMA CORRIN wearing Cartier Libre Polymorph earrings at the BAFTA

Or like Phoebe Dynevor and Emma Stone, one could opt for Louis Vuitton high jewelry collection earrings with a substantial feel, featuring either straight or curved lines that exude calm, rational power.

Emma Stone wearing Louis Vuitton diamond earrings at the Golden Globes
Emma Stone wearing Louis Vuitton diamond earrings at the Golden Globes
Phoebe Dynevor wearing Louis Vuitton earrings at the BAFTA Awards
Phoebe Dynevor wearing Louis Vuitton earrings at the BAFTA Awards

As we all know, under the guidance of Creative Director Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s high jewelry has been a staunch advocate of powerful jewelry. Their effortless ability to create a grand atmosphere using points, lines, and planes is unmatched.

Even their jewelry ambassador is the “formidable” Cate Blanchett. Louis Vuitton has not only launched many hardcore choker necklaces but has also demonstrated equally powerful presence in earrings.

Of course, jewelry designer brands also have many earring designs that fit the “Female Samurai Style,” most of which showcase a sharp, prominent edge.

For instance, Rachel Brosnahan, the lead actress in “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel,” chose an armor-like, fitted corset-inspired gown for the Emmy Awards red carpet. She paired it with asymmetrical earrings from the Parisian jewelry brand Rainbow K, which have a punk style. This created a stark contrast with her character in the show, who pursues classic perfection and elegant ladylike style.

Rachel Brosnahan 
Wearing Rainbow K earrings at the Emmy Awards
Rachel Brosnahan
Wearing Rainbow K earrings at the Emmy Awards
Rainbow K Magnetic asymmetrical earrings
Rainbow K Magnetic asymmetrical earrings

This brand was co-founded by gemologist Kelly Souied and designer Kelia Toledano, two women with a bold and avant-garde style, creating sharp jewelry pieces using metal.

Interestingly, their works incorporate tough industrial elements like rivets, pipes, and screws, but always expressed through smooth, rounded curves. Perhaps this is a characteristic of female designers – even when showcasing sharp edges, there’s an inherent gentleness.

Rainbow K Floating Pear earrings
Rainbow K Floating Pear earrings
Rainbow K Shark earrings
Rainbow K Shark earrings

To be honest, linear earrings are a very versatile choice, but to match the “Female Samurai Style,” the lines must be made bolder. These designs that emphasize presence and edge are not the romantic tassel designs. Although both are linear, one exudes a bold and free-spirited aura, while the other focuses on gentle elegance.

For instance, “T-Swift” chose to layer De Beers’ Arpeggia linear earrings on the Golden Globes red carpet, emphasizing a clean and fluid look. This style comes in many variations; Taylor wore the three-line design, but single-line and five-line designs are also available. The Arpeggia earrings connect discontinuous points into lines, embodying a flexible beauty that combines strength and softness.

Taylor Swift 
Wearing De Beers Arpeggia three-line earrings at the Golden Globes
Taylor Swift
Wearing De Beers Arpeggia three-line earrings at the Golden Globes
De Beers Arpeggia earrings
De Beers Arpeggia earrings

The Italian jewelry brand Repossi is also quite adept at these linear earrings, and now the brand is helmed by a woman.

Fourth-generation Gaia Repossi inherited her ancestors’ love for architectural styles and favors geometric designs. Her linear transformable earrings can be freely combined to match different outfits. Moreover, her “lines” can be straight or intersecting, creating a rhythmic variation like an abstract painting composed of points and lines.

Repossi Serti Sur Vide transformable earrings
Repossi Serti Sur Vide transformable earrings
Repossi earrings
Repossi earrings

After all this, are you intrigued? Does the first jewelry trend of 2024 resonate with your independent and wise self? The “Female Samurai Style” aims to use these bold and free-spirited jewels to accentuate your strong “leading lady” presence. They are like a female warrior’s jewelry armor, empowering you to move forward fearlessly in the new year.

2024 Jewelry Trend: Embrace Your Inner Warrior Princess with the Bold ‘Female Samurai Style’!